How to Tie the Klemheist Knot

Usage

The Klemheist Knot, sometimes called the French Machard Knot, is a reliable and versatile friction hitch that every climber or outdoor enthusiast should know. Whether you're scaling a rock face, exploring a cave, or setting up a rescue line, this knot shines for its ability to provide a secure grip when loaded in one direction while ascending and descending ropes.

Why Learn the Knot

The Klemheist Knot is a must-know for climbers and outdoor enthusiasts. It is simple, adaptable to different materials (rope, cord, or webbing).

Common Uses

• Climbing and Mountaineering:
  • Ascending or descending fixed ropes.
  • Securing yourself during rappelling or belaying.
• Search and Rescue:
  • Creating adjustable anchor points for rigging.
  • Providing reliable friction for moving loads.
• General Outdoor Applications:
  • Securing gear in caving or outdoor expeditions.
  • Adjusting tension in a line for setup or transport.

ABOK Number  (Ashley Book of Knots)  #1762 (p. 299)   Other Names French Machard Knot Machard Knot Klemheist Friction Hitch   Category Slide and Grip Knot / Friction Hitch

Notable Features

• Directional Grip: Provides a secure hold when loaded from the bottom.
• Ease of Adjustment: Slides easily when not under tension, allowing for quick repositioning.
• Material Flexibility: Can be tied with rope, cord, or webbing.
• Non-Jamming: Simple to untie, even after bearing heavy loads.

Similar Knots

Rolling Hitch vs. Klemheist Knot

• Pros of the Rolling Hitch: Excellent for securing a rope to a pole, post, or another rope. Handles multi-directional tension better than the Klemheist.
• Cons of the Rolling Hitch: Less effective for sliding and gripping on a static rope when compared to the Klemheist. Requires more practice to ensure a secure grip, especially under load.

Prusik Hitch vs. Klemheist Knot

• Pros of the Prusik Hitch: Provides bi-directional gripping, making it ideal for applications where the rope might be loaded from multiple angles. More secure under varying loads than the Klemheist.
• Cons of the Prusik Hitch: Harder to adjust and slide when not under load. Requires precise tying to avoid slippage, making it slightly more challenging for beginners.

Farrimond Friction Hitch vs. Klemheist Knot

• Pros of the Farrimond Friction Hitch: Quick-release feature allows the knot to be undone easily, even under tension. Particularly useful for temporary setups requiring frequent adjustments.
• Cons of the Farrimond Friction Hitch: Less secure than the Klemheist for critical applications like climbing or rescue. Relies heavily on proper tying technique to maintain friction.

Blake’s Hitch (No ABOK) vs. Klemheist Knot

• Pros of Blake’s Hitch: Functions well as an adjustable friction hitch for climbing or rigging. Grips securely in one direction while still allowing smooth adjustments when unloaded.
• Cons of Blake’s Hitch: More complex to tie than the Klemheist. Larger profile can make it less convenient in situations requiring compact knots.

History

The Klemheist Knot traces its origins back to the Prusik Knot. Over the years, it has become a staple in climbing and rescue scenarios due to its simplicity and reliability.

Security Level

The Klemheist Knot is highly secure when used correctly, but it is directional, meaning it only grips effectively when loaded from the bottom. It is recommended to test the knot under load before relying on it in critical scenarios. Adjust the number of wraps to ensure a firm grip and prevent slippage.

Downsides

• Directional Limitation: Only grips under bottom-loaded tension.
• Size Dependency: Requires a loop smaller in diameter than the static rope for effective friction.
• Weaker Under Multi-Directional Loads: Can slip if tension is applied in the wrong direction.

Structure

1. Create a loop using a Double Fisherman’s Knot or Water Knot.
2. Wrap the loop around the static rope 2-3 times in an upward direction.
3. Pass the lower bight through the upper loop and tighten.
4. Ensure the wraps are neat and test the knot under load.

FAQ

What is the Klemheist Knot used for?

It is primarily used in climbing and rescue for ascending or descending a rope and for securing gear.

Can the Klemheist Knot be tied with webbing?

Yes, it works effectively with webbing when tied correctly.

Is the Klemheist Knot better than the Prusik Knot?

The Klemheist slides more easily, while the Prusik grips bi-directionally, making them suited for different scenarios.

How do I ensure the Klemheist Knot won’t slip?

Use a loop with a smaller diameter than the static rope and add additional wraps if needed.

Is the Klemheist Knot easy to untie after heavy loads?

Yes, one of its advantages is that it doesn’t jam under tension and remains easy to untie.

Important Notes on Safety

Always test the Klemheist Knot under load before use. While it is reliable for directional loads, ensure that it grips securely and doesn’t slide. For life-critical situations, confirm its security or consider alternative knots like the Prusik or Bachmann.