How To Tie the Alpine Butterfly Knot

Usage

The Alpine Butterfly Knot is a popular and highly reliable mid-line loop knot, particularly valuable in climbing, camping, and rope rescue operations. It is frequently used to create a secure, load-bearing loop in the middle of a rope, which is multi-directional, allowing you to add an anchor point, bypass a section of rope, or evenly distribute weight.

Its unique structure provides excellent security and stability without compromising strength, making it indispensable in challenging conditions where rope strength and durability are essential.

Why Learn the Knot

The Alpine Butterfly Knot is the definition of reliability. It’s known as the “Queen Of Knots” for a reason! It’s a mid-line loop knot that wont jam up after heavy tension is put on it. Its stability under heavy load makes it ideal for creating fixed loops that can handle significant tension from various angles, or simply for creating an anchor point on a ridgeline to hang something as simple as a lantern.

Common Uses

Camping and Bushcraft:

Creating midline loops for securing tents or tarps.
Setting up clotheslines or bear hangs by adding secure loops in a longer rope.
Serving as anchor points in a rope for hammocks or gear suspension.
Making a rope step ladder
Hanging lanterns, cooking pots, or mid-line objects.

Climbing and Rope Rescue:

Provides a midline anchor point without needing access to the rope’s ends.
Used to bypass damaged or weakened sections in a climbing rope.
Essential for building multi-point anchor systems and load-sharing setups.

General Outdoor and Household Applications:

Useful for hanging tools or securing gear in sheds or garages.
Can create loops for pulleys or lines in tree trimming or gardening.
Handy for securing rope in outdoor activities or emergency preparedness.

ABOK Number

(Ashley Book of Knots)

#1053 (p. 191)

Type

Mid-Line Loop

Other Names

Lineman’s Loop
Butterfly Knot
Twist Loop
Queen of Knots

Variations

None

Notable Features

Midline Strength: The Alpine Butterfly Knot creates a secure loop in the middle of the rope without needing the ends, making it excellent for midline loading.
Non-Slip: Holds firmly under tension and remains secure, even under high, multi-directional loads.
Easy to Untie: Despite its strength, the knot unties easily after heavy use, making it practical for temporary or semi-permanent setups.

Similar Knots

Directional Figure Eight vs Alpine Butterfly

Pros: Holds well under load and offers direction-specific stability, ideal for applications where tension is exerted in one direction.
Cons: Can jam after bearing heavy loads, making it difficult to untie. It’s also slightly bulkier than the Alpine Butterfly Knot.

Artillery Loop vs Alpine Butterfly

Pros: Easy to tie midline and offers a stable loop that’s relatively quick to make. It holds well under load.
Cons: Not as versatile for multi-directional loading and doesn’t maintain as secure a loop as the Alpine Butterfly, especially under alternating loads.

Double Dragon Loop Knot vs Alpine Butterfly

Pros: Very secure under load and easy to untie, even after heavy tension. Works well in applications needing strong loops midline.
Cons: More complex to tie than the Alpine Butterfly and may require more practice to master. Takes slightly longer to secure due to its structure.

Lineman’s Loop vs Alpine Butterfly

Pros: Commonly used by linemen, this loop is easy to tie midline and is known for its reliability. The knot can handle significant tension in one direction.
Cons: Not ideal for loads from multiple directions and can slip or distort under extreme load, unlike the more stable Alpine Butterfly.

Bight Loop vs Alpine Butterfly

Pros: Simple to tie and provides a quick loop in the middle of a rope. Good for temporary or light-load applications where rapid setup is needed.
Cons: Less secure than the Alpine Butterfly, especially under significant load or multi-directional forces. It may slip or collapse if not carefully dressed.

Manharness Loop vs Alpine Butterfly

Pros: Provides a stable midline loop and is useful for creating a makeshift harness or attaching gear in rescue situations. Holds up well under single-directional load.
Cons: Difficult to untie after heavy load and isn’t as stable under multi-directional forces as the Alpine Butterfly Knot.

Span Loop vs Alpine Butterfly

Pros: Useful in climbing and rigging to create midline loops with excellent security under moderate tension. Often used to balance or span load over multiple anchor points.
Cons: Bulkier than the Alpine Butterfly and requires more practice to tie correctly. It’s also harder to untie under high load, especially if tension is multi-directional.

History

The Alpine Butterfly Knot has a long history in climbing and mountaineering due to its reliability and unique characteristics. Its name suggests its use in alpine conditions, where reliability under load and ease of tying with gloved hands are crucial. Climbers and rescue workers favour it for its security and the way it evenly distributes weight without reducing rope strength. Its versatility and stability have also made it popular in other outdoor fields, including camping, scouting, and general survival applications.

Security Level

The Alpine Butterfly Knot is highly secure, particularly when loaded from multiple directions. This knot is designed to resist slipping and maintain strength under high tension, making it suitable for life-support applications such as climbing, rescue, and rigging.

Downsides

Requires Practice: The tying process can be tricky for beginners and may take practice to master.
Time-Consuming: Compared to simpler loop knots, the Alpine Butterfly takes slightly longer to tie.
Not Ideal for All Rope Types: Some ropes, especially those with high stiffness, may make this knot harder to tie and untie.

Structure

Step 1: Form a loop in the middle of the rope by making three twists.
Step 2: Pull the middle twist over the others and wrap it around, creating a loop.
Step 3: Bring this loop back over the twists and insert it under the turns.
Step 4: Tighten the knot by pulling on both sides of the rope and the loop, ensuring the structure is compact and secure.
Step 5: Check the knot’s stability by loading the loop and pulling in different directions.

FAQ

What is the Alpine Butterfly Knot used for?

It’s commonly used in climbing and rigging for creating secure midline loops without needing access to rope ends.

Is the Alpine Butterfly Knot suitable for heavy loads?

Yes, it is highly stable under heavy loads and maintains its integrity even with multi-directional tension.

Is the Alpine Butterfly Knot useful in camping?

Absolutely! It’s excellent for creating secure loops in tarps, and ridgelines, and for suspending gear midline.

How does the Alpine Butterfly Knot compare to a Bowline?

While both create secure loops, the Alpine Butterfly Knot holds better under multi-directional loads and is specifically suited for midline use.

Can the Alpine Butterfly Knot be tied with gloves on?

Yes, the knot is fairly easy to tie, even with gloves, making it suitable for cold weather or rugged conditions.

Important Notes on Safety

The Alpine Butterfly Knot is a secure and reliable choice for creating midline loops, but ensure it’s dressed correctly to prevent slipping. Always check that the knot is fully tightened and inspect it regularly, especially in life-critical applications like climbing or rescue work.

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