How to Tie the Double Alpine Butterfly Loop
Usage
The Double Alpine Butterfly Loop is a secure knot that creates two fixed loops in the middle of a rope. It’s widely used in climbing, rescue, and mountaineering for forming attachment points along a shared line. The loops remain stable and won’t collapse, making this knot an excellent choice for hikers, rescuers, and riggers who need reliable clip-in points for safety and efficiency.
Why Learn the Double Alpine Butterfly Loop?
This knot provides strong, independent loops that stay secure under various loading conditions. Whether you’re managing a shared rope for a group hike or creating multiple anchor points in a rigging system, the Double Alpine Butterfly Loop offers stability and versatility.
Common Uses
-
Climbing and Mountaineering:
- Creating multiple secure loops for attachment points.
- Search and Rescue: Providing clip-in points for a shared safety line.
- Rigging and Utility Work: Distributing loads across multiple loops to reduce strain on the main line.
ABOK Number
(Ashley Book of Knots)
Other Names
Type
Multi-Loops Knots
Mid-Line Loops |
Notable Features
- Secure and Reliable: Offers two stable loops that won’t collapse under load.
- Non-Collapsing: Can handle independent loading on each loop without compromising the knot’s integrity.
- Mid-Line Functionality: Does not require free rope ends to tie, making it convenient for shared ropes.
Variations
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Similar Knots
Double Figure 8 Knot (Bunny Ears) vs. Double Alpine Butterfly Loop
- Pros: Equally strong and reliable.
- Cons: Harder to untie after heavy loads.
Bowline on a Bight vs. Double Alpine Butterfly Loop
- Pros: Simple to tie and effective.
- Cons: Loops may tighten unevenly under load.
Alpine Butterfly Loop vs. Double Alpine Butterfly Loop
- Pros: Easier to tie with one less loop.
- Cons: Creates only a single loop instead of two.
History
The Double Alpine Butterfly Loop evolved from the Alpine Butterfly Loop and is also referred to as the Double Lineman’s Loop or Harness Loop. Historically, it was designed to provide multiple secure loops along a shared rope, making it indispensable in climbing and rescue operations. Its ability to handle multi-directional loads has cemented its place as a trusted knot in outdoor and utility work.
Security Level
The Double Alpine Butterfly Loop is highly secure and maintains its integrity under load. It is non-collapsing, ensuring stability even if only one loop is loaded. However, care must be taken to dress the knot properly to avoid jamming or loosening.
Downsides
- Jamming: Can jam under heavy shock loads, particularly with stiff ropes.
- Careful Dressing: Requires careful dressing to ensure stability.
Structure
- Lay the rope over your palm and create a full wrap around your hand.
- Continue with two additional wraps, keeping them aligned.
- Take the top two loops and pass them over and through the bottom two.
- Remove your hand and tighten the knot by pulling on the loops and standing ends.
Pro Tip: Ensure all loops and strands are parallel and properly dressed to maximize security.
FAQ
What is the Double Alpine Butterfly Loop used for?
It is primarily used to create two secure loops in the middle of a rope for climbing, rescue, or rigging.
Can the loops handle independent loads?
Yes, each loop can bear a load independently without compromising the knot’s stability.
Is the knot difficult to tie?
While it involves multiple steps, with practice, it becomes quick and easy to tie.
How does it compare to the Alpine Butterfly Loop?
The Double Alpine Butterfly Loop provides two loops instead of one, making it more versatile for certain tasks.
Important Notes on Safety
The Double Alpine Butterfly Loop is reliable for creating multiple attachment points, but proper dressing is essential to avoid jamming or slippage. Avoid using overly stiff ropes, as they may make the knot difficult to untie after heavy loads.
