How to Tie the Alpine Butterfly Loop

 

Usage

The Alpine Butterfly Loop is commonly used to create a secure mid-line loop for climbing and search and rescue, offering strength and versatility.

Why Learn the Alpine Butterfly Loop?

Its robust loop design ensures strength across directions. This knot is a staple for climbers and rescuers needing a dependable mid-line anchor.

Common Uses

• Climbing:
  • Creates mid-line anchors for rappelling or belaying.
  • Secures climbers to protection points in multi-pitch routes.
• Search and Rescue:
  • Forms anchor loops for high-angle hauling systems.
  • Attaches to litters or harnesses for secure transport.

 

ABOK Number  (Ashley Book of Knots)  #1053   Other Names Butterfly Knot   Category Mid-Line Knots

 

Notable Features

• Multi-directional strength: Handles loads from any angle without weakening.
• Non-jamming: Easy to untie even after heavy strain.
• Secure loop: Provides a reliable anchor point for rigging or hauling.
• Versatile: Suits climbing anchors, rescue systems, or gear securing.

Variations

No true variations listed in the provided data. To add security, tie a stopper knot (e.g., Overhand Knot) on the loop’s tag end to prevent slippage in critical applications.

Similar Knots

Span Loop vs. Alpine Butterfly Loop

• Pros: Simpler to tie and compact for quick mid-line loops.
• Cons: Less secure under multi-directional loads compared to the Alpine Butterfly.

Farmer’s Loop vs. Alpine Butterfly Loop

• Pros: Easier to tie with a wrapping method, good for quick setups.
• Cons: Bulkier and less reliable under heavy or dynamic loads.

Artillery Loop vs. Alpine Butterfly Loop

• Pros: Quick to tie and adjustable for temporary loops.
• Cons: Weaker and more prone to slipping than the Alpine Butterfly.

History

The Alpine Butterfly Loop likely originated in mountaineering, where a strong, mid-line loop was critical for safe anchoring and rigging. Referenced in The Ashley Book of Knots (#1053), it’s prized for its strength and non-jamming nature. Its widespread use in modern climbing and search and rescue underscores its reliability for high-stakes outdoor applications.

Security Level

The Alpine Butterfly Loop provides excellent security for mid-line anchoring, holding reliably under multi-directional loads when tied correctly. It remains stable on most ropes but may require careful dressing with slick materials. A stopper knot on the loop can enhance security for critical tasks.

Downsides

• Learning curve: Requires practice to tie quickly and correctly.
• Rope dependency: Needs proper dressing to avoid slippage on slick ropes.

Structure

1. Twist the rope twice to form two loops, holding them in your hand.
2. Take the second (lower) loop and fold it over the first loop.
3. Thread the second loop through the first loop’s opening.
4. Pull the loop through and tighten by pulling both standing ends.
5. Adjust the loop size and check the knot for symmetry and security.

Pro Tip: Ensure twists are even to maintain knot strength and balance. Practice tying under tension to simulate real-world conditions.

FAQ

Is the Alpine Butterfly Loop strong enough for climbing?

Yes, it’s highly reliable for anchoring and rigging when tied and dressed properly.

How does the Alpine Butterfly Loop compare to the Double Dragon Loop?

It’s easier to untie after loads but slightly more complex to tie correctly.

Can the Alpine Butterfly Loop be used in rescue operations?

Absolutely, it’s ideal for creating secure anchor points in hauling systems.

Why is the Alpine Butterfly Loop preferred for mid-line loops?

Its strength and non-jamming nature make it versatile for multi-directional loads.

Is the Alpine Butterfly Loop safe for slick ropes?

It works but needs careful dressing; a stopper knot adds security for slick materials.

Important Notes on Safety

Common failure points include improper twisting or poor dressing, which can weaken the knot. Always verify the knot’s symmetry and test it under light load before critical use.
Ensure the rope is suitable for the load and conditions.
Check the knot’s twists and dressing for balance.
Practice tying in low-stakes settings to build confidence.